By Nikki M, ETW Travel
There’s a particular moment, somewhere between the easyJet wheels leaving the runway and that first glimpse of the Cypriot coastline from 30,000 feet, when I remember exactly why I do this job. Travel isn’t about ticking places off a list. It’s about returning home a little lighter, a little browner, and with a head full of sunsets. And Cyprus delivered all three in abundance.
I’d promised myself five days of proper, unapologetic decompression, and Paphos was ready to oblige from the moment I stepped into arrivals. Paphos International is, quite frankly, a masterclass in how a holiday airport should operate – efficient, well-signposted and refreshingly calm. I was through passport control and waiting at the carousel before I’d even finished my first “hello, I’ve landed” text home.
A tale of two hotels
I split my stay deliberately – three nights at the Athena Beach Hotel followed by two at the Cypria Maris Beach Hotel & Spa, because, let’s be honest, one of the joys of being a travel specialist is the ability to road-test properties on your own behalf and your clients’.
The Athena is a proper grande dame of the Paphos seafront. My room was generous, warmly furnished, and the balcony doors opened onto that unmistakable Mediterranean light. The kind that makes every morning cup of tea feel ceremonial. The pool terrace, cascading down towards the sea, is the sort of view you’d happily look at all day. And I did. Several times.
The Cypria Maris, just a short stroll along the coast, offered a different flavour, more contemporary in its styling, with a softer palette and a lovely sense of modern calm. Both hotels sit within that comfortable four-to-five-star sweet spot where you’re looked after without feeling fussed over, and both had the kind of attentive staff who remember your name on day two. That, in my book, is worth its weight in gold.
The Paphos that the headlines forget
I’ll be direct here, because I think it matters. Over recent weeks, the UK press have worked themselves into a bit of a lather about travel to the Eastern Mediterranean, and Cyprus has, at times, been caught in that wash. I’m here to tell you, hand on heart, that my experience could not have been further from the picture some headlines might paint.
“The resort was fairly busy, with a lovely relaxed atmosphere,” I found myself messaging a colleague on day two. “I felt completely safe and comfortable the entire time. There was absolutely no sign of anything untoward. Honestly, I’d return tomorrow.”
And I meant every word. Paphos is a city going about its business with the easy confidence of a destination that’s been welcoming British travellers for decades. Families strolling the promenade at sunset. Couples sharing carafes of local wine. That glorious, lived-in Cypriot hospitality.
Wandering, wave-watching and one outstanding taverna
I’m not a lie-by-the-pool-for-five-days sort of traveller (well, not entirely), so I made a point of exploring. Paphos Harbour is an absolute picture; fishing boats bobbing alongside rather smart yachts, and the wonderfully atmospheric Paphos Castle standing sentinel at the entrance. I could happily lose an afternoon there, coffee in hand, watching the world drift past.
I took morning walks along the rocky coastline where the sea crashes against the limestone in great, theatrical sprays, and I stumbled upon the beautiful whitewashed Agios Nikolaos church with its cobalt-blue dome — a postcard made real. Little coves tucked between the hotels revealed patches of proper golden sand, and I did what any self-respecting travel professional would do: I took my shoes off, dug my toes in, and stayed a while.
Food-wise, the undisputed star of the week was Uncle Tony’s Taverna, a roughly 20-minute walk from the Athena Beach. This is traditional Cypriot-Greek cooking at its most honest; fresh meat and fish prepared in an open kitchen with a proper charcoal grill humming away in the corner. The halloumi, obviously, was superb (when in Cyprus…), and my chicken pita with tzatziki and chips was the sort of simple, flawlessly-executed meal that makes you go a bit quiet with happiness. Do book. It’s popular for very good reasons.
The verdict
Cyprus, for me, is sunsets, food and my happy place by the sea, and this trip reaffirmed every bit of that. If you’ve been holding off booking because of something you half-read somewhere, please take this as your nudge. The welcome is warm, the island is stunning, and the experience is every bit as lovely as it’s always been.
I’ll be back. Probably sooner than I should admit.
Thinking about Cyprus for your next escape? The team at ETW Travel would love to help you plan a trip as restorative as mine.
Nikki M x
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