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Tenerife is the most developed of the seven Canary Islands, which sit around 200 miles off the west coast of Africa. Blessed with sunshine year-round, this well-loved and well-trodden island is much more than a winter escape and summer playground.
More credit should be given to the island for its extraordinarily beautiful and diverse attractions, remote mountain villages, cultured coastal ports, and charming ancient towns. There is a clear distinction between the arid south and the somewhat cloudy and lush vegetation of the north. In the language of the original inhabitants, Tenerife means “snowy mountain”, a direct reference to the dormant volcano of Mount Teide that dominates the island.
The province of Santa Cruz de Tenerife includes the three tiny islands of La Palma, La Gomera, and El Hierro, which are scarcely developed for tourism and have no large resorts. However, more and more visitors are discovering these peaceful green havens, especially if they enjoy walking, wildlife, and mountain scenery.
Tenerife South
Unlike many contemporaries, Playa de las Americas didn’t evolve from a coastal settlement or port. Purpose-built in the 1960s in the district of Arona, it is now sandwiched between the Municipality of Adeje and the former fishing village of Los Cristanos. Helped by importing sand from the Sahara to make the beaches of the area look more appealing than the native volcanic black sand, the development grew at an astonishing rate so that today the whole south-western coastline is a continuous line of beaches, bars, nightclubs with hundreds of eateries including over a dozen Michelin star restaurants.
During the day, Playa de las Americas is one of the best spots to surf on the island. It has numerous surf schools and rental shops and is situated between the municipalities of Arona and Adeje. The beach and resort share the same name, and the area is the most popular destination in Tenerife for holidaymakers looking for fun, sport, and entertainment. By day, the main attractions are the beaches with over a kilometre of golden sands and clear waters. Additional beaches are found at Troya, La Honda, and El Camison, with a wide range of leisure options and water sports. By night, it is a let your hair down, party town.
Once upon a time, Los Cristianos was a small fishing village before the centre expanded to accommodate the growing numbers of tourists, but here and there, it still retains something of its original seafaring character. The heart of Los Cristianos is its pedestrianised promenade, which runs alongside the beaches and is packed with bars and restaurants. In the evening, its lively atmosphere puts it on par with Las Americas in terms of nightlife. Ferries depart here for the neighbouring islands of La Gomera, La Palma, and El Hierro.
Further to the east of Los Cristianos is the bohemian beach town of El Medano, making it an ideal destination for those wanting to enjoy the southern coastal sunny climate while avoiding the party crowds. A hike up Montana Roja, a small inactive volcano jutting out into the sea, offers beautiful views of the surrounding area.
Nearby Costa del Silencio is the best choice for those seeking a tranquil getaway. Perched on the island’s southern tip, this coastline is quite rugged, with some of the most dramatic scenery on the island.
On the western side of Playa de las Americas lies the more sophisticated resort of Costa Adeje, a firm favourite for those looking for upscale hotels and restaurants. The area includes Puerto Colon, Playa Fanabe, Torviscas, San Eugenio and Playa del Duque. The resort has modern shopping centres, stylish bars, superb restaurants, and a championship golf course built in colonial style. Along 26 kilometres of coastline, there are 14 beaches and coves, so visitors have a wide choice of beaches and swimming activities. The beach is also home to over 500 fish species and other sea creatures, attracting thousands of visitors to the many diving centres. The choice of hotels and apartments along Costa Adeje is extensive. At the main beach of Playa del Duque, a boardwalk runs along its length, with bars and restaurants offering everything from basic snacks to al fresco dining.
Some twenty kilometres further along the southern coast, Los Gigantes is a great spot to slow down. Named after the towering sea cliffs that rise to 800 metres, the town’s natural beauty is one of its main appeals. It also offers a more authentic feel compared to other towns on the island. You can hike the cliffs and surrounding countryside, scuba diving in the azure waters, or simply relax on Playa de la Arena or Los Guios Beach. For a more adventurous day out, head to the verdant Masca Valley for a wild ride to the scenic mountain village of Masca before hiking down the ravine to the beach and returning via boat to Los Gigantes.
Puerto de Santiago is just a stone’s throw away from Los Gigantes, and it provides a selection of cliff-top walks on your doorstep. Despite a peaceful vibe, there is still a good selection of restaurants and shops in town.
Tenerife North
Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the island’s capital, has dignified air and is welcoming and friendly towards visitors. Among the city attractions are traditional, colourful cottages and seafronts. To get a feel for the city’s atmosphere, Plaza de Espanais is where the locals gather to socialise on the terraces around the square. The stately Ramblas boulevard leads down to the sea with impressive colonial-style mansions and outdoor sculptures, while the ultra-modern arts complex of Auditorio de Tenerife Adan Martin is worthy of a photo opportunity even if not attending an event.
British travellers discovered Puerto de la Cruz in the mid-nineteenth century. The writer Agatha Christie came to this beautiful part of Tenerife in 1927 to recover from her divorce and the death of her mother. She wrote two books here, and in one of them, The Mysterious Mr Quin, she depicts some of the city’s most notable spots. The town even named a street (or steps) after her, where the walk up the hill and beyond into the small square of Mirador La Paz offers great views over the town and shoreline. A star attraction in Puerto de la Cruz is the outdoor complex of Lago Martiánez, consisting of seven seawater swimming pools with a large central lake containing five islands, along with gardens, terraces, viewing points, and sculptures.
Puerto de la Cruz used to be known as Puerto de la Orotava but changed its name in 1808. The historic centre of La Orotava, known as the town of balconies, is only a few miles from the coast and has been very successful in preserving countless colourful buildings, cobbled streets lined with palm trees and intricate wooden balconies dating back to colonial times.
San Cristobal de la Laguna is easily the most photogenic town on the island. It was the capital of Tenerife until the 18th century and is famous for its delightful architecture. An abundance of cobbled streets are lined with colourful houses, artisan shops, small squares and friendly bars. Despite being a historical town, it has a young and energetic atmosphere mainly due to the University of Laguna, set among large mansions and more modest dwellings. The nightlife is as vibrant here as in any student city, but all co-exist in harmony in this corner of northwest Tenerife.
Places to visit
Spain’s tallest mountain, Mount Teide, reaches 3,718 metres and is the third-largest volcanic structure in the world. On a clear day, it can be seen from other islands in the archipelago. The Teide National Park is also home to some of the best hikes in the Canary Islands. The ascent in the cable car is a unique experience, and while you can climb to the peak from the top station, you have to obtain a special licence from the park authorities.
Barranco del Infierno is a beautiful landscape of great geological interest within the municipality of Adeje. The area offers a hike over deep gorges, waterfalls and caves that were once home to the Guanches, Tenerife’s original inhabitants. On this 6km plus return walk, you can appreciate breathtaking waterfalls and admire the magnificent Caidero, a huge, 200-metre-high cascade formed by waters from the upper stretch of the river Roque Abinque.
El Drago Milenario Park is one of Tenerife’s more unusual tourist attractions. It is located in the municipality of Icod de los Vinos, midway between Puerto de la Cruz and Los Gigantes. Dragon trees are typically found in the Canary Islands; however, the park contains the most famous of all, which is at least 800 years old. Its claim to being the oldest in the world is more about good marketing than fact.
Some 28 km away from Santa Cruz, the origins of the Pyramids of Güímar are uncertain. They have sometimes been attributed to ancient civilisations, although alternative views suggest they are mounds created by farmers. The complex is open to the public and includes a museum, a garden with plant species, some of which are poisonous, an auditorium, and more.
Loro Parque is near Playa Jardín, in Puerto de la Cruz. Tourists from all over the world come to see the world’s largest and most diverse parrot reserve. But these tropical gardens are also home to lions, tigers, hippopotamuses, killer whales, sea lions, penguins, flamingos, sharks, alligators, and turtles, with all the animals living in spaces replicating their natural habitats.
Tenerife continues to be adept at combining diverse attractions with its natural surroundings, creating a unique and spectacular island holiday destination.
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